Really Cool Dude

Still high on the lead — they said to not worry about it.

Oil Report #2

Received the 1st report on my oil today. They said that there is a little too much lead in there – could be from the initial wear on the bearings as it is a brand new engine. Recommended another oil change in another 500 miles.

Oil Report 1

Air box modification

Polaris part number – 5410834

Ploaris Airbox mod

Here is a link to the Maintenance Checklist used by Triumph.

Checklist

(photos have been removed – email if you need help)

There is a kit available with the parts you need. I however put together my own kit as it was much cheaper.

Please note that this is the first time I have ever modified a motorcycle. I have no prior mechanics skills. So its not hard!

This is what I used:

- 2 oil pan drain plugs for a Nissan Bluebird, part number 11128-01M05 (12 mm 1.25), 3$ each

- 1 bolt, M8 × 16mm

- 1 plastic cap from my bicycle bar end

This is how it is done:
1. Remove the Seat
2. Disconnect the battey
3. Remove the tank
4.Remove the rubber hoses between the chrome air injection tubes and the reed valve (red).

You need to loosen the spring clips (yellow)

5. Remove the large rubber hose that runs from the top of the airbox to the reed valve. Plug the hole in the airbox.

ai3.jpg

-I used a bar end plug that I got from my bicycle. It was a bit long so I sawed of the end.

(I did not use any silicone to seal the plug. Perhaps you should?)

ai4.jpg

- Once the plug is in place

ai5

6. Remove the thin (ribbed) vacuum line that runs from the reed valve to one of the carburator manifold vacuum ports. Leave rubber end in.

ai6.jpg

- Since I didnt have a rubber cap (like the ones that cover the other 3 vacuum ports) I left the rubber at the end and put a screw in it. I used a M8 × 16 mm but I guess any screw that fits tightly would work.

ai7.jpg

7. Now remove the vacuum operated reed valve. It is mounted with 2×10 mm bolts (red arrows).

ai8.jpg

8. Yank off the black pipes that sits on the air injection tubes

ai9.jpg

9. Use a 13 mm wrench to remove the air injection tubes.

Save the copper washers on each tube!

ai10.jpg

10. Now plug the holes for the air injection tubes with the Nissan oil pan plugs. Use the copper washers that you saved.

ai11.jpg

Here I ran in to a bit of trouble. The Nissan oil plugs were a bit wide so I had to grind them down just a little. I think they where 12 mm to start with. I grinded them down to about 10.

ai12.jpg

- then they fit perfectly!

ai 13.jpg

11. Now all you have to do is reconnect the battery, put the tank and the seat back. And you are done!

THIS IS A COPY OF THE PREVIOUS LIST OF FILTERS: Here is the unabridged list of what will fit the Bonnie:
Motorcycle-Specific Filters
AC Delco PF2135
AMSOil SMF103
FRAM PH6017A
Honda 15410-MCJ-000
K&N KN-191 – Has a metric nut on the end for easy removal
NAPA Gold 1358
Carquest 85358, WIX 51358
Purolator Motorcycle ML16817 Imported, not made by Purolator
STP SMO 07
Automobile Filters about 2.5 inches long
Mobil M1-108
Purolator Pure One PL14612
Bosch 3300
WalMart SuperTech ST6607 Made by Champion
AC Delco PF1237
NAPA Gold 1365
Purolator L14622
STP S-02876
Baldwin B1400
Hastings LF113
Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long
Bosch 3323
Mobil 1 M1-110
Purolator Pure One PL14610
Purolator L14610
NAPA Gold 1356
Carquest 85356
WIX 51356
Deutsch D-370
AC Delco PF-2057
Motorcraft Long Life FL-821
STP S-02867
FRAM, Castrol, Penske 7317
Baldwin B1402
Hastings LF240

• House
1. Dogs
   • Food
   • Water
   • Form
   • Collars
2. Keys to everyone
   • Dog Caretaker
   • Jane and Gerry
3. Turn off computers
   • Chris
   • Ryan
   • Bar
   • LEAVE ON WEB SERVER
4. Turn off TV’s
5. Move furniture
6. Doors closed or locked

• Luggage
1. Ryan
   • stuff
   • stuff
2. Chris
   • stuff
   • stuff
3. Sherry
   • Drugs
   • stuff
4. Dad
   • Phone
   • toiletries
   • Laptop
   • Phone Charger
   • Wallet
   • Drugs

• Tickets
1. Boarding passes
2. ID cards

Not real thorough but it is a start for some info on Carb re-jetting

Carb Jetting Info

Read the attached PDF…

Bonnie Tach Install
Another Tach Install Guide

If I had this to do all over again, here is my advice — DON’T DO IT — Once you chop up your silencers, what do you have? Some chopped up silencers!! Just buy a pair of new exhausts, there are some good deals out there, especially on eBay for some Emgo Reverse Cones

Tools needed:

1 1¼ metal hole saw (choose a good one)
Minimum 1/4” long metal drill bit
Preferred: ½ in drive drill

The rear baffle is held in place by a rear flange and an inner flange. The baffle is tack welded in two places to each of these flanges. Use the hole saw to cut through the rear flange of the rear baffle. This gives you a nice smooth cut.

Use a drift or hold an appropriate sized socket against the rear baffle tube with channel locks or vice grips and tap it sharply to break the spot welds on the front flange. Next remove the fiberglass that is around the tube/baffle with a needle nose pliers or hemostats. The fiberglass is wrapped with thin wire to hold it in place. If you can grasp the wire with needle nose pliers and break it, the fiberglass packing will come out easier in larger chunks. Removing the packing is the hardest part of the job.

When you have removed the fiberglass packing, you can see the inner flange. It is perforated with 1/8” holes. Use the long 1/4” drill bit to drill five or six holes in the flange close to the baffle tube. I drilled six in the pattern of the chambers in a revolver cylinder. You are drilling it out all around to create a larger opening and allow for the baffle tube to come out. Grasp the baffle tube with pliers and pull it out. You may have to twist and turn it some to get it out. If it won’t come out, simply drill a couple of more holes. One of mine came out with six holes; the other took seven holes.

You probably don’t have to rejet, but if you went up to 112 or 115 main jets the throttle response should improve. The holes in all the internal baffles are 3/4” so you are not dramatically improving the flow through the mufflers. The sound is a little deeper and about 15% louder than stock and doesn’t sound like a sewing machine anymore. This is definitely worth doing if you don’t want loud mufflers but can’t stand the sound of the stock mufflers. You should turn your mixture screws 3 to 3½ turns. I turned mine out 3¼ turns.

In addition you can drill through the remaining baffles. I did this and it improved the sound as well as improving the flow.

To drill through the remaining baffles you will need a flashlight and a ½ or ¾ inch metal drill bit welded to a 1/2 steel rod approximately 38” long. I measured from the beginning of the front taper of the silencer to the rear of the silencer. I then applied this measurement to the 38” steel rod measuring from the tip of the bit back and marked it with fingernail polish. I did this so I would not push the bit too far and hit the taper of the silencer. I used a ½” bit simply because I did not have an extra ¾” bit. It really doesn’t matter. It’s definitely not rocket science. If I remember correctly, there are four more baffles to drill through.

The end result is not quite as loud as TORs; but definitely cheaper and it sounds pretty good.

Jetting: For just the rear baffles removed, try 112 to 115 main jets. If all the internal baffles are drilled out with a 1/2” drill bit, use 115 to 118 main jets. For 3/4 “ drilled internal baffles, try 120 main jets. Jetting recommendations are for sea level and the snorkel in place.

Give credit for this to CarlS on the Triumph Rat Forum —
Baffle Removal